When we woke this morning the fog we had left the evening before had kindly hung around to greet us again. We had decided to accompany Miche to work after which she had kindly offered to loan us her car. The promised view of the railway bridge of course didn’t happen however we were blessed that the speed restrictions that often occur in foggy conditions had not yet been imposed. Unfortunately we also missed the views of the rolling hills either side of the A-Road.
Pulling in at the Forfar Education Centre Miche gave us our final instructions about using the car and the vagaries of the English road laws before heading in to work. Upon nestling into the driver’s seat in Miche’s manual car, John turned the key and promptly stalled it as he had forgotten to depress the clutch. Remedying that we reversed out of the car park and down into central Forfar and the town square.
After another 20p comfort stop we decided to head toward the little town of Brethin. Our aim was to visit the Story of the Picts museum along the way taking in some of the Pict stones however before we had even left the outskirts of Forfar we realised that we had taken the wrong road. Cutting our losses we headed back to the motorway and straight to Brethen. As things worked out this was actually the best idea anyway.
At Brethin we pulled into Pictavia just as a small group of P-2 students were being taken on a guided tour of the centre. Asked if we wanted to wait till they had moved through or join in with them we decided to join them which was a good idea because that we way we had explained to us the story of how the Picts used to inhabit the East Coast of Scotland. Though primarily farmers who cleared much of the land they were also fierce fighters who had halted the might of the Roman Empire causing the Romans to build Hadrian’s Wall and before that the doomed Antonie Wall higher up in Pict territory.
Following the Romans, in the early 500’s AD some members of Scot tribes arrived on the west coast of Scotland. The Picts and Scots lived for some time in a state of wariness with occasional fierce battles though there were also numerous marriages between each tribe. In 563 Christianity in the shape of Columba came to Scotland. The Picts who had previously been pagan adopted Christianity alongside their existing beliefs. In 793 AD the Vikings began their invasion of the land of the Picts. This caused the Picts and Scots to join together to fight this latest invader effectively forming the nation of Scotland.
The Picts had their own language and alphabet. They also carved many of their stories on large stone cairns some of which can still be found in the local area. A couple of the smaller ones are housed at Pictavia alongside some plaster casts of the major ones in the local area. The museum also houses a copy of the story of the Battle of Ducheninn a famous victory of the Picts over some invading English the original of which can still be seen in the churchyard at Arblemno.
Finally dragging ourselves away from Pictavia, (Steve our guide was so engaging and willing to share he could have talked for days), we tracked back towards Forfar via the road we had originally looked to travel along. Stopping to take in the original stones we noted how one face was taken up with Christian symbols and stories whilst the other has Celtic and pagan symbols, a sort of bit each way approach to their beliefs system.
Back in the centre of Forfar we looked to lunch and enjoying a local favorite, the Bridie. Bridies are pasty shaped pastries filled with a beef and spiced onion mix without gravy. Ms V had a flaky pastry variety and Mr P had a traditional short crust variety. Both were very tasty indeed.
Heading out of town we then visited Glamis Castle most famous as the family home of the late Queen Mother. Whilst Mr P was rather underwhelmed by the tour, (lots of dinner sets, old furniture and deer heads stuck on walls) and the fact that we were not allowed to take pics was disappointing. Back outside we enjoyed wandering around the gardens and checking out the Highland cattle grazing in a field.
Having picked up Miche, Mr P reluctantly surrendered the driving seat and we headed toward the coast and Arbraoth. Getting closer to the coast the fog once again became thicker such that when stopped at the Arbraoth Harbour we could see no further than the seawall upon which sat the harbour control sounding a warning blast every 50 seconds. The main reason for stopping in Arbroath was to enjoy a “smokie” or smoked herring and chips.
The smokies can be purchase at any of a number of harbourside fishmongers and are wrapped in newspaper. Having purchased ours we then went to Peppo’s fish shop to get our chips. Apart from the fact that Peppo sold potato chips, the menu was virtually unrecognisable compared to those back home. The workflow was also vastly different. “Peppo” was the only cook in the shop despite a customer queue that lead out the shop door and onto the street, (Miche told us that last time they were here the queue was around thirty people long). One of “Peppo’s” female assistant’s role was to take orders and call them out for all to hear whilst both she and her younger assistant assembled and wrapped the orders, first in white butchers paper and then overwrapped in an extravagant pile with yesterday’s newspaper.
One curiosity, amongst others advertised that Mr P did not was that the pies were heated by dropping them into the oil vat.
Back by the dockside we unwrapped and enjoyed our very tasty chips and smokies watched with eagle eyes (?) by a pair of local gulls. It was then time for a short wander around town and then onto the local cliffs. As we were warned by the only one warning sign in the area these red sandstone cliffs can be deadly though there was not a guard rail or anything else to be seen other than on the path leading up the hill.
By now the fog was beginning to lift, (at around 7pm) and we took in some eerie views back over the town and out to sea. Taking our fill of nature it was back to the car and the drive back to Edinburgh this time via the golf course town of Carnoustie and the Tay bridge, unfortunately you guessed it, shrouded in fog.
Apologies for the lack of pics with this post but we are restricted internet access The pics for this post are available in the Flickr list on the right side of the blog.
Another day dawned a little grey though quite warmish for this part of the world and after a lazy start to the day we headed back up to the city with this time Mickey as our guide, (Miche had to go back to work). Our intention was to check our the other end of the Golden Mile and Holyrood House plus the Scottish Parliament Building.
Along the way through town a couple of things caught Mr P’s eye including the solar powered parking pay stations that are dotted throughout the city. One wonders why we don’t have similar machines all over Australia when they obviously work here in a city that on evidence so far is largely devoid of regular sunshine.
Solar Parking
A little further up the hill we came across a pair of window washers hard at work with an extendable washing arm that was the envy of Mr P given that we have windows at the beach house that are unreachable by normal cleaning means. Upon seeing we were going to take a pic, the guys insisted on extending the arm to its full extent to better show off the capability, (at the same time giving the folks in the rooms above a free and unexpected washing).
Washing Windows
Into the main shopping area we came across a window display of things Kombi including a drinks tray and pencil cases.
VW Heaven
VW TRay
Finally on “The Mile” we this time turned left and headed down the hill away from the castle and towards Holyrood House. There was noticeably less pedestrian traffic as we moved down the hill as well as less souvenir shops. Part way down the hill we came to the Netherbow Wellhead a public water source in the days before household plumbing. Now with the water turned off There has been a wellhead on the spot since 1675.
The Netherbow Wellhead
Finally at the bottom of the hill we arrived at the Scottish Parliament building on one side of the intersection with The Palace of Holyrood, the official residence of HRH in Scotland, directly across the road. All the way down the hill we had been seeing notices advising that “The Mile”and surrounding streets would be closed over the upcoming days.
Deciding to head to Holyrood first we were disappointed to find out that HRH was in town and as a result the palace was closed for visitors. Making do with some pics taken through the gate we turned our attention to the Parliament.
Holyrood House
Holyrood House
A really interesting building it incorporates themes from Scottish history and geology with numerous rocks protruding from one wall with metal bars representing the thicket walls that surrounded traditional Scots villages running the length of another one. Imagine our disappointment then to find that because HRH was in town the Parliament building was also closed to visitors. Ah well at least we could take in the view of Arthur’s Seat directly adjacent to the Palace and Parliament.
Scottish Parliament House
Scottish Parliament House Doors
Arthur's Seat
Heading back up the hill we were engaged in conversation by some of the pupils from a Royal Mile School fronting the Mile and housed next door to the Parliament house before we happened upon the Edinburgh Museum. One of a series of free museums on the Mile run by the Edinburgh Council it was a real gem. Seemingly ignored by most of the tourists it was full of numerous items and maps telling the story of inner Edinburgh comlete with very noisy creaking floorboards.
A large clock mechanism caught Mr P’s eye along with a Sedan Chair used to transport the rich around town. The wooden water pipes were amazing to consider and Mr P and Mickey were enticed to seal a deal by using the Burgh Muir stone. In days gone by horse buyers and sellers would complete the deal by both placing their thumbs in the hole at the same time.
Sealing The Deal With The Burgh Muir Stone
Museum Clock
Clock Mechanism Back
Sedan Chair
Wooden Water Pipes
Around the corner was a map explaining where exports from Edinburgh were sent around the world. With exports dominated by cotton, fish and mahogany, the listing for Australia was convicts. Mickey was attracted to the musket stand of the Town Armoury complete with guns locked onto it.
Leith Exports, Convicts
In another glass cabinet exhibit were reminders of the leisure activities of the past including a old golf stick heads alongside some balls. There was also a curling stone which is a large stone that was hurled or thrown along a flat sheet of ice towards a target. As the stone gets closer to the target, helpers sweep the ice to either speed or slow the stone. The other items to catch the eye were a tulip growing prize in the form of tongs and a carpet bowls medal.
Golf Stick Heads
Golf Balls
Curling Stone
Tulip Growing Trophy
By then lunch was in order and a Turkish eatery caught Ms V’s eye which proved to be a great choice. The view from the arches was worthy of a pic before we headed back to meet Miche and see Mickey off to his bar work.
Later that evening we headed back onto the now very misty Edinburgh streets to take in the real Mary King Close tour.
Misty Royal Mile
Closes are the small laneways that run between the large multi-storey buildings that form the Old Town of Edinburgh. They run down the hill from the Royal Mile to what was then the Nor Loch, a large reservoir of water that was both water supply and sewerage pond for the city. Over time the buildings served as housing for generations of families with the poorest sharing single rooms on the lowest levels with the richest having multiple rooms at the top levels.
In the case of Mary King Close, in the 1750’s with many of the closes derelict, the council decided to build over the top of it and then build again. As a result the top of the close was lopped off with the buildings of the close providing the The tour leading through a very solid foundation for the levelled off structure above. As a result the rooms of the close below were sealed off until in 2002 they were opened up again as a tourist attraction and ongoing archeological dig and investigation.
During our very entertaining and highly informative tour we were introduced to all manner of folk who had lived in the close along with stories of the lifestyles and major events that influenced life n the close including how they dealt with sewerage, (throwing it in the street), through to the plague and the final inhabitant of the close the Chesney’s who finally moved at the turn of the 20th century.
After leaving the tour we headed down the quite eerie nearby Anchor Close and another night on the pull-out bed.
The new day dawned rather grey and foggy and after a little debate in the camp it was decided to head towards the historical village of New Lanark via the scenic Pentland Hills and then on to Glasgow. Just to lower the already downbeat mood of the day we found the car had attracted a parking fine. The parking system in Edinburgh is a nightmare what with double and single yellow lines which indicate no and then free parking respectively, interspersed with pay for parking and permit parking both indicated by marked white boxes but differentiated as we found out by the words permit parking written on the pavement. Unfortunately Miche’s car was in the “pay for” not the adjacent “permit”, box hence the 60 pound ($120) fine, (discounted to 30 pound if paid within 14 days).
Heading out across town the fog got more and more impenetrable as we climbed further up the Pentlands spoiling our opportunity to view the snowless ski slopes where Miche had worked until she secured her present role as an educational psychologist. Finally the fog began to clear, just as we left the Pentlands behind.
Leaving the A road we came upon the little bunting bedecked village of Carstairs. Carstairs is one of the few villages in Scotland that still has a village square that was the venue for the local gala hence the bunting. A couple of the local households had also gotten into the spirit of the gala by decorating their frontyards with in one case figures from 101 Dalmatians and the other celebrating Harry Potter.
Bunting Bedecked Carstairs
Carstairs Village Square
101 Dalmatians
Harry Potter Celebrations
Arriving at our next destination, New Lanark we noticed a British Racing Green veteran convertible of indeterminate make complete with wheel chock and spare fuel tanks along the running board. Heading down into the Clyde River valley where New Lanark is set we took in the very pretty vista of the valley and the neat rows of housing, factory and other buildings.
What Is That Car?
New Lanark Panorama
New Lanark was built as one of the premier cotton spinning towns in the UK. It was situated in the valley in order to make use of the River Clyde to drive the waterwheels that through an ingenious array of rope pulleys powered the original spinning works. Established by David Dale, the mill was later purchased by Robert Owen who then went on to marry Dale’s daughter. Owen bought with him many very progressive ideas on how life for his workforce could be improved including establishing the world’s first nursery school as well as a workers’ co-operative store where villagers could purchase quality food and goods at cheaper prices than in surrounding villages. He also instituted a universal health scheme for workers whereby the workers contributed 1/16th of their wages but got free access to a doctor in return. The very spacious school building was also used for adult education classes. Owen also played a part in the establishment of trade unions as well as a range of other initiatives. You can read more about New Lanark here.
Over time, long after Owen was no longer associated with the mill, and as the bottom fell out of the UK cotton market, the mill gradually fell into disrepair and was in the process of being dismantled when a trust was established to seek restoration and preservation of the buildings and surrounds. As a result the whole village is now a Word Heritage Listed Site. The facades of all of the original buildings have now been restored and are meticulously maintained. Some have been turned into living museums including one of the mill buildings, the village store and the schoolhouse where many of the artefacts of Owen’s time are still on display.
One of these, the 19 foot circumference globe was particularly interesting because of the mishapen map of Australia, or new Holland as it was then known. At the back of the school house hang replicas of the school uniforms that Owen provided freshly laundered for each of the children at the school. On the long tables were small slates that visitors could use to practice their writing.
Please Miss Can You Teach Me About Australia
But The Map Says New Holland
Another of the innovative features of the village was above the mill where a rooftop garden has been installed complete with all manner of different plants as well as some modern sculptures. Walking around the garden we caught the smell of the kitchen below which reminded us that we should have some lunch. When Mr P saw that haggis pie with baked beans was on the menu he just had to have one which in the end proved quite tasty even given that haggis is basically the left over innards of sheep.
View From Rooftop Garden
Lanium Up Close
Modern Hares
That Pie
Within the village there are a number of exhibits that tell the story of the mill and village folk in Owen’s time. One of these is a monorail ride that uses holograms and other displays to tell the story of ten year old Annie McLeod. This was a fun and informative introduction to how the mill was run and the lifestyle of the workers and managers of the time.
Off To See Annie McLeod
The mill is set on the bank of the River Clyde and water from the river is diverted though a special water race to run the waterwheels. Water falls from the race though a grate onto the waterwheel below which the drives gears and pulleys to power the mill machines. Since that time steam and other power sources were used to power the mill but one of the waterwheels has been restored and still runs though it no longer drives any machinery.
The Rope Pulley System
A track leading from the village wanders alongside the river bank to a number of waterfalls that break up the river’s path. Our party took the 20 minute walk to the first of these along what is known as the badger track. Though none of us saw any sign of said badger we did find a number of wildflowers and nearby signs that told us of the plants and their properties. Ms V also spotted a couple of interesting snails that also had to be snapped.
The Clyde River Upstream
An English Snail
Up Close And Personal With A Foxglove
Cora-Linn Falls
We rounded out the day in the village by visiting the store where Mr P spied a sherbet fountain along with some other strange sweets, or lollies before we took the slow trek back up the hill to the carpark and road back to Edinburgh.
Thinking that as the day in New Lanark had been quite fine and indeed even quite warm that the fog might have lifted we tracked back along the same road we had taken on the way in. Alas as we drew closer to the Pentlands, the fog from the morning soon enveloped us once again so once again we missed the matting covered ski slopes.
On the way back through town it was decided to call in at the pub where Mickey works. Reflecting on the parking problems of the morning much care was taken in finding where to leave the car this time. Having found a secure and free parking space we took the short walk into the Grassmarket and on to The Beehive. As time was getting on we chose to have a meal, a largely forgettable plate of fish and chips in the case of Miche and Mr P made a little more palatable because Mickey gets a staff discount.
Back out in the fog it was off home and more careful parking
Today dawned grey and just a little damper than the evening before. Undeterred we donned our wet weather gear and made our way to the local Farmers’ Market. Situated at the rear of the castle the market showcased a range of regional produce including exotic meats such as venison and buffalo, some excellent Isle of Aran cheeses and live seafood including razor clams and live North Sea prawns. Another highlight was the Chip Hut where the vendor sliced and cooked his crisps in front of us before adding a choice of flavouring. The advisory to one customer to be careful about breathing in vinegar fumes from his bag because it was an acid was slightly amusing. Despite the weather the markets attracted a steady stream of custom and we enjoyed a taste of some of the cheese, some fruit wine before sharing a very tasty Angus Beef Burger before leaving to catch a double decker bus, (yep we sat on the top front seats but the rain made the glass wet so no pics .
Wet Farmers Marketting
Making Chips in The Chip Hut
Razor Clams and Other Seafood
The bus took us down to the port of Leith and HMY Britannia. When the royal family decided that Britannia was no longer to be used as the royal yacht submissions were called from cities of the Commonwealth to determine where it would be berthed as a display. In the end Leith was determined as that city. The yacht is now berthed next to a major shopping centre in the safe harbour.
Starting the tour on the second floor of the shopping centre we passed a long a concourse displaying pictures of the royal family down the years on board the yacht as well as others showing the Britannia being escorted into port. Just as we rounded the corner leading to the main desk we found ourselves surrounded by a busload or more of mainly elderly American tourists.
Holding back to allow the majority of the group to pass we eventually picked up our hand held audio guides and set off on the gang-plank up to the bridge of the yacht. On the deck behind the bridge was the carefully stowed flag locker and chart.
The Royal Yacht
The Flag Locker
How To Flag Your Intentions
Moving down a deck and toward the stern we explored the royal deck where deck games were played leading on to the enclosed sun deck which still carried the original furnishings which Mr P at least thought were rather dated and underwhelming. These led into the royal apartments and bedrooms. Amongst other illuminating and riveting facts revealed by our audio guides was that HRH and Phil preferred blankets to duvets and that HRH preferred a bigger turn down on her sheet than her consort. Outside on the sun deck was also the Britannia bell.
The Royal Bell
The Royal Wooden Thing That We Forgot The Name Of
Above the sundeck is another deck that was normally covered by an awning but which is now fully enclosed as a tourist tearoom. Of course Ms V and Miche had to take in a cuppa so Mr P tagged along. Perhaps in the end it might have been better had he not as when the bill came Mr P had cause to complain about the fact that some of the promised menu items were unavailable. Even given a discount, 17 pounds, ($A34) for a couple of pots of tea, a ginger beer a gluggy Brownie and eight mini scones and jam without the promised cream did seem very over-priced.
High Tea At 50p A Sip
Leaving the tearoom we moved down another deck to check out the his and hers offices that HRH and Phil use when on board. Situated either side of a passageway, our audio guide informed us that HRH and Phil used the telephones in each office to keep in touch.
HRH's Workstation (Where's The Laptop Plugin?)
A little further on we passed the only double bed on board before entering the dining room. Here great care is taken in how everything is laid out down to even measuring the distance between each piece of cutlery with a ruler. This fact alone probably accounts for the three hours it needs to actually set the table.
Moving on we entered the State Room the space where guests can be received and entertained or where our audio guide putting on his best plummy accent suggested “the guests would garther”.
The Royal Dining Room
The State Room: A Place For Guests To Garther
Down another deck we finally came to where the crew live, (btw our guide informed us that crew and royals were not to mix unless invited and if a crewman was accidentally found on deck by a royal said crewman had to stand stock still with eyes down until the royal had departed the scene). Heading down the ranks from petty officers to seaman and marines the rooms became more and more cramped with bunks on bunks and the smallest of lockers to store uniforms some of which had to be changed many times over during the day dependent on what the royals were up to.
Petty Officer's Cabin
Petty Officer's Mess
The Laundry
The Surgery
Heading back out onto the dock we checked out the Royal Barge that has its own little storage pond before heading down into the engine room. All bright and shiny and painted white and black the engines were as original.
The Royal Speedboat (aka Barge)
The Barge From Above
Finally leaving the royal opulence behind we made our way back into the adjacent shopping centre for some retail therapy for the ladies and to get some supplies from the Marks and Spencer’s food place for dinner. Strange to note that the food place was all about pre-packaged ready to cook items rather than individual ingredients that you could use to fashion your own dishes. Mr P was devastated in particular that there were no herbs on sale at all.
Back on a single decker bus it was time to head home and ponder further on things royal and the cost of it all.
Today was our day for the castle. After a hearty breakfast we traced some of the steps of yesterday back past the Art Gallery and onto the Royal Mile, through the already in place Military Tattoo viewing platforms and on to the castle gate, the portcullis. Miche and Mickey have sensibly purchased a National Trust pass which meant that we could get priority service when paying for our entrance bypassing the quite long queue of other tourists.
We were soon right amongst the castle buildings taking in the memories and mementos of the various Scottish Regiments as well as the numerous royals who have used the castle in the past. We also spent considerable time taking in the great views from the ramparts. The weather gods were not as kind as the previous day providing us with rather grey and overcast conditions accompanied by a quite cold and brisk wind.
M&M The Guards
The Thin Red Line
The Military Tattoo Seating
Helping Guard The Castle
Edinburgh From The Castle Ramparts
Having checked out quite a few exhibits it was time to take in the firing of the one o’clock gun. Used to help the townsfolk set the time one story goes that the gun fires at one rather than the more traditional 12 because it requires less by way of manpower and explosive than firing off 12 rounds. As the following movie shows the firing is completed with the minimum of fuss by the one gunnery officer.
Heading round the corner towards the Royal Apartments we were stopped in our tracks by the changing of the guard outside the Scottish War Memorial. At least on this occasion there was more than one soldier involved though this ceremony had nothing in comparison with the changing of the guard at Arlington War Cemetery.
Wandering on further through the Royal Apartments and Great Hall, past the Crown Jewels and down through the old prison we checked out the many historical aspects of each. It was then on to the highest point of the castle where the dog cemetery is situated close by to Mons Meg, an old siege gun and St Margaret’s Chapel at the very highest point of the castle.
The Great Hall
Great Hall Far End
Great Hall Window
Almost At The Top
By now the wind had gotten the better of most of the crew and as we had basically seen all of the major attractions it was time to head for something warming. Miche suggested we should head for the Elephant House coffee shop famous as one of the places that J.K. Rowlings used to take her child to to escape the cold when she was writing the first of the Harry Potter books. The Elephant House is also into supporting elephant welfare and the room is dotted with elephant paraphernalia. A couple of the rear windows also provide great views of the castle.
The Elephant House
Ordering At The Elephant House
The J K Rowlings View
Suitably warmed and replenished we said goodbye to Mickey as he had to head off for work at the bar where he works. Now a group of three we once again trudged our way uphill to the Camera Obscura exhibit. The Camera Obscura is a clever device that works similar to a periscope to capture views of the streets below and project them onto a quite table in a darkened room so that viewers in the room see moving coloured images of the outside. Once can well imagine how the first people to see it might have been completely taken aback. The young gentleman doing the 40 minute presentation was very knowledgeable and also quite humorous in telling the tale of the obscura and some of the landmarks identified with it.
On each of the four floors below the actual camera are various exhibits that build on and rely on other aspects of optical illusionary including use of mirrors, numerous 3-D devices, holograms and plasma dome arrangements. All in all it took well over 90 minutes to finally make our way back to the ground floor before heading back to St Stephens Place.
Siamese Ms V
One Of The Plasma Devices
As it was another significant anniversary in the V&J partnership, (this being the 5th), a celebratory dinner was in order. Miche suggested a nearby French Restaurant, Chez Pierre. Calling in on the way past we were told the next available booking slot was for 8:30 which we took. As it turned out it was a great decision as the food was very good and the service impeccable although the restaurant itself was just a little too warm for some of our liking. Going outside to take in the night airs Mr P and Ms V enjoyed the gentle mizzle that had quietly descended before once again taking leave and heading to bed.
Our first full day in Edinburgh was one of orientation and acclimatisation. As Miche and Mickey both had to work we were on our own to find our way into and around our latest stop. Earlier in the year Mr P had had the good fortune to be introduced to one of the leading Scottish members of the educational bloggerati in John Connell. On hearing that we were heading over this way John Had graciously enquired whether we might like to catch up whilst we were in his locale. As a result, and despite the fact that he himself was supposed to be packing for hols and leaving the next day, John took the time to drive into Edinburgh for a meetup at the lovely Centotre in the centre of town.
A former bank, Centotre is one of “the places” in Edinburgh to meet and in our case was the perfect venue for a very amiable and enjoyable cuppa before John C had to head back to his packing. Just in case we or others had forgotten anything, the Centotre offered a range of toiletries and other bits and pieces to ensure that you could start the day suitably.
The Centotre
A ??? of Johns
Centotre Concierge List
Having enjoyed our repast we headed back down the hill from the centre of town to our little flat to do a little shopping at the Scotmid mini-mart just around the corner. Scotmid http://www.scotmid.com/ is a community based chain of supermarkets in convenient locations across Scotland and in our case is like a beefed up corner store not unlike our local IGA in Portarlington. In Scotmid they have the standard baskets plus some really cute little baskets on wheels.
Our Local Scotmid
The Scotmid Basket Trolley
Having had lunch we ventured out once again this time along the banks of the River Leith that runs through the new town part of Edinburgh. A very pretty walkway runs along the banks of the now walled off river just a street away from M&M’s place. Part of the walkway is the linear park, Dean Garden, which we thoroughly enjoyed the peacefulness of the walk through.
For those unfamiliar with the local topology, Edinburgh is built on seven hills so just about anywhere you go in the city, you are either going up a hill or just about to go down one before heading up again. This of course makes for fairly strenuous walking conditions as well as providing lots of opportunities for creative roadbuilders. It was fascinating then looking up through the trees in Deans garden to see high above the canopy the Deans Road Bridge.
Deans Road Bridge over River Leith
Other Side of Dean Road Bridge
The River Leith
Ms V and River Leith Upstream
Heading back into to Princess St Mr P noticed a bricked in doorway with an invocation to God and Burgh that built it. One of the most noticeable aspects of Edinburgh streets is that many are cobblestone laid which makes for interesting sounds as cars and bikes pass by. Walking up the hill we passed by the Queens St Gardens which extends over 3 blocks. Whilst they look very inviting these are private gardens which require a key to access, and are not open to the public.
Filled In Doorway
Doorway Dedication
The main street of Edinburgh is Princess St however at the moment the street is closed for the re-installation of a tramline. Up until the 1960’s when they were removed trams ran along this and other nearby streets. In Edinburgh, like a number of other cities around the world mass transit light rail systems are being reintroduced though one wonders whether the city fathers might now wonder on why the originals were removed.
On the lower side of the street are the Princess St Gardens. Previously used as a moat and combined water storage and sewerage disposal pond, the area forms a natural ampitheatre that in summer is lawned providing space for sunbathers and picnicking families. In winter the area is transformed into a skating rink. One of the main features of the park is the Ross Fountain. Coming from water restricted Victoria it is strangely disconcerting to see a fountain in full stream. This side of the park also affords great views of the back of the castle and the rocky outcrop on which it has been built.
The Ross Fountain
Rear View of Edinburgh Castle
Heading up out of the park towards the art gallery we passed the floral clock and then took in the vision of the eastern side of the park resplendent with all manner of folk taking in the the afternoon sun. On the forecourt of the gallery was a relief model of the inner city designed to be used by the sight impaired to better understand the layout of the city. It also proved an an attractive seat for many passers by.
Scottish Bicentenary Floral Clock
Scottish Sunbathers
Castle Relief
Princess Gardens Skyline
Leaving the park and heading up yet more steps this time onto what is known as The Mound we saw directions to the HBOS museum. Being priced within our range, (free), we ventured in to be confronted by a million pounds under glass, all of them sadly cancelled. The museum exhibits then went on to tell the story of how HBOS grew out of a range of bank amalgamations of smaller banks as well as the part that banks have played in the community. Ironically HBOS has now lost it’s Scottish roots in the latest financial crisis now falling under the umbrella of the Lloyds group. One interesting fact revealed in the exhibit was that The Mound on which the museum was built is made of all manner of rubble and rubbish from human activity going back many years.
Heading further up towards the Royal Mile we wandered up through a close, or small laneway opening up into a shared courtyard. This particular close lead to a literary museum and on the stones leading up to it were carved quotations from some Scottish literary notables. Ms V and I decided to give the adjacent Literary Museum a miss on this walk instead joining the throngs on the Royal Mile. Our eye was caught by but when we ventured into the Highland Tollbooth Kirk we were quite disappointed to find that the church building had now had been converted into The Hub, a booking office for the Edinburgh Festival with an adjacent coffee shop.
Very quickly back out on the street we wandered down the hill to St Giles Cathedral which is still operating as a church. Quite imposing but also quite dark inside the church was adorned with reminders of conflicts past and soldiers who served in them.
As it was heading towards 6pm it was time to head for home along the way purchasing a pair of sunglasses to replace the pair that Mr P had lost for the third time, (this time permanently). We also called past the Melville Monument but bypassed the opportunity to spend 20p for a comfort stop, picked up a couple of bottles of wine for dinner and then went to ScotMid to get some supplies for dinner.
Soon Miche was home followed soon by Mickey after which we all enjoyed a nice curry dinner and catch up before once again disassembling the sofa into our quite comfy rollout bed and sleep.
All good things must come to an end and so it was that today was the day to leave our very generous hosts Don and Sandra to take the four hour journey north to our next stop Edinburgh. Having fulfilled our breakfast promise we took our last look over the back garden before making our final farewells for now and heading to the station.
Don and Sandra's Backyard
Don and Sandra's House
Ms V, Don & Sandra Farewells
Thankfully there were no tennis fans on this train so we didn’t have to endure standing room only this time which was just as well as we had our cases with us. The lack of fellow travellers let us better appreciate the relative attractiveness of the train we were on. It is interesting too how on each train, one of the carriages is designated the quiet carriage where mobiles and the like are discouraged.
Commuter Train To London
The Quiet Zone
Once into London we took a couple of tube trains to Kings Cross and joined the throngs there in wait for our First National Edinburgh service. Of course a comfort stop was in order though we were a little taken aback by the need to pay 30p to pee.
Looking around we noticed most fellow travellers were standing in a group craning their necks to take in the departure announcements that identified which platform each train was leaving from before a major stampede ensued in order to make sure that each passenger could find a luggage storage space near their seat. When our call came however we needn’t have worried as our train was definitely not full.
Kings Cross Platforms
Departing on time Mr P was delighted to find that our seat was at a table with an onboard powerpoint at the end. The situation was made even better when our netbook easily connected to the free wifi service provided on the train. Overall the seats and service was very comfortable and the four and a half hour journey flew by as quick as the countryside. Along the way our eye was caught by a couple of interesting sites including a pair of power stations and the scenic town of Berwick on Tweed.
Power Station From Train
Scottish Countryside
Berwick On Tweed
Arriving in Edinburgh just after 6pm we took out Michelle’s very descriptive directions and went in search of her car. Of course we got it wrong on the very first step so a mobile call was needed before we located each other and began the short trip to their digs in St Stephens Place. As with all cities Ms V and Mr P were glad that they had a chauffeur to get them around.
Arriving on the vicinity of our next accommodation M informed us that residents there about didn’t have access to regular cark parking spots but rather have to drive around the block hoping to get somewhere close by to leave the car that wasn’t in a timed space. Fortunately as we had bags to haul, Miche found a park just at the rear of the small walkway leading to their lodgings and we were soon in their cozy little apartment.
Divesting ourselves of our luggage and after a quick introduction to the backyard and other aspects of our latest stopping off point we hopped back in the car and headed out of town to the very breezy Firth of Forth bridge connecting Edinburgh with Fife. The famous railway bridge features commonly in images of Scotland and so served as a backdrop for a short movie, (only turn the sound on if you want to hear the strong wind) and a couple of other pics. The nearby road bridge is fast achieving more noteriety however as the cables that hold the span aloft are slowly snapping and the bridge has a quite forshortened life span.
Miche and Firth of Forth
Ms V & Mr P and Bridge
Finding some relief from the wind we headed indoors to the Orocco Pier restaurant where Miche had booked a table overlooking the water for a very tasty pasta and rissotto dinner before the other M, Mickey joined us having finished his sail out on the same waters. Back in the car it just a short drive home before we hit the fold out bad for some well earned rest.
Wednesday dawned bright and clear which was nice for us as this was to be our one day in the “big smoke”. Once again our very obliging host Don came to the fore taking us on the short drive to the train station and making sure that we caught the minimal stop train. The train we wanted normally has only three stops on the 40 odd minute journey into Waterloo station however as the tennis had started today’s service stopped at rather than missed Wimbledon station. As a result the train was packed and it was standing room for us for much of the trip until the tennis crowd alighted.
One amusing aspect of these changed arrangements was that many of the passengers had been pre-programmed to hop off at Woking for the Wimbledon connection. This was further reinforced by the automatic train announcements. Every time this announcement was repeated the on-board conductor had to come over the speaker to let everyone know that the train was indeed stopping at Wimbledon. As a consequence when we arrived at Woking there was considerable confusion between those who had been tuned into the onboard announcements and those that had not.
Once the throng had left the train the rest of the journey into London was very comfortable and we soon arrived at Waterloo. As always the first experience of a new mass transport arrival lounge was a little disorienting however Ms V soon had us heading in the right direction down to the river and the London Eye. As both of us had previously ridden the eye we didn’t see the need to take the flight again this time so we headed south along the embankment of the Thames.
Apart from the numerous musical buskers and the others painted as statue representations of HRH or headless knights that somehow manage to whistle, the big standout were the trees with polka dot trunks. It turns out that these are part of an installation (?) by a Japanes artist Yayoi Kusama. After we got used to them, the trees were perversely attractive.
Polkadot Trunks
Meandering amongst the tourists, school groups, joggers, cyclists and assorted office workers using Queens Walk we next came upon the lawn of the National Theatre and the oversized lounge suite surrounded by the quintessential British accessory, the deck chair.
National Theatrical Charis
A little further along the river, just past Blackfriars bridge we stopped to take a movie of the panorama. Looking over the river wall we noticed a gentleman in wellingtons on the now exposed river bank using a metal detector to scan the sand. Every sweep he seemed to locate something metallic that he quickly and efficiently dug out with a small trowell before putting his prize in a small bag around his waist. We weren’t able to identify what it was he was discovering however but he certainly found quite a few in the time we observed him.
Detecting For Royal Treasure
Putting the little Flip to work it was time for a Thames vista
Blackfriars Bridge is undergoing renovation and one of the bridge adornments has obviously been given a spruce up. Not far along is a reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre with an ice-cream van out the front. We decided in lieu of an ice-cream we should have something more substanial for lunch washed down with some soft and not so soft drink. The extra fringed top on the lemon kept Mr P amused for some time.
Fancy Bridgework
Ice-cream For The Bard
Tamper Proof Drinks
Ideal Sunroom Southbank Thames
Suitably topped up it was time to head over the river via the Millineum Bridge towards St Pauls Cathedral. Over on the North Bank we came upon one of the many street pianos that are set up in areas around inner London complete with sheet music and chair asking for pedestrians to come and tinkle the ivories. After a little cajoling Mr P hand a very minor tinkle before we moved on to St Pauls.
Over the Millineum Bridge To St Pauls
A Street Piano
The One Fingered Pianist
Intending on going in, (though we had both checked it out previously), we were a little taken aback to find that it now costs 11 pound, (around $22) for entry with even more cost for guides tours etc. Folks who were coming for services can enter for free however Don was telling us later in the day that he had gone to a service some time back and that they worshippers were cleared almost as soon as the service ended. Given we were on a bit of a timetable we decided our $44 could be better spent elsewhere.
So it was that we headed down the Tube and over to Shepherd’s Bush and the largest and newest shopping centre in the UK, Westfield. Impressive it was with great access almost directly from the train, bus and road. Being new everything was sharp and shiny but the most noticeable aspect of the centre was the large multicultural mix of shoppers and staff. An hour in Marks and Spencers was followed by almost the same time in Sainsburys, (the upmarket supermarket). Mr P was on a mission as Ms V had volunteered that he would prepare a special breakfast for our final meal with Don and Sandra. Whilst the range and quality of the fruit and vege has increased since our last visits we still found it hard find a couple of key ingredients.
Mr Lowy's Shopping Centre
Singers at Westfield
After our shop-up it was back on the tube to Picaddily Circus and on to Leicester Square Wandering up to St James Place gardens we found the small inner city square is a private garden that is only accesible to the public from 10-4:30. Disappointed we made our way on to the half price ticket outlet in Leicester Square. Scanning the possible shows Mr P suggested Avenue Q which has just opened back home in Melbourne. At $22 per ticket they were definitely in our price range so we booked despite Ms V’s apprehension that we were paying to see a puppet show.
With time to kill we wandered up into Soho, in times past the most seamiest part of London. Now more a dining out area you can still find glimpses down lanes of the businesses that previously predominated in the area. Stopping for a long iced coffee we took in the quite diverse and fascinating passing crowds.
After a little more of a walk around to locate our theatre venue we looked around for womewhere to dine. Checking out a couple of buffet establishments Mr P was aghast at how chefs could turn snowpeas mushy grey amongst other less than appealing offerings. As Ms V had memories of previous times eating hamburgers before going to sit “in the Gods”in the one pound seats it was decided to stop at Ed’s Hamburger Joint. This was quite an inspired choice as the food was definetely freshly cooked and served hot. The only quibble was that when the bill came it contained a discretionary gratuity, (read tip), of 12.5%. Now we could have not paid but when you’re in a strange place????
Ed's Burgers
Avenue Q Stage
Full with burgers and chips, we joined the crowd at the Gielgud Theatre for our show. Being seated in the back row, the overhang of the Dress Circle obscured the top of the set, however through clever use of televisions along the wall we didn’t miss any of the show. And what a fun show it was. The basic theme of the show is what happens to Sesame St characters once they grow up and leave “College”. With a quite serious message, the show took aim at lots of sacred cows in often politically incorrect but very funny ways. Even though the actors working the puppets were on stage doing the vocals it was not long into the show that you hardly noticed them but focussed on the puppets.
Leaving the show we found our way back to the Underground and a connecting train back to Guildford and our last night with Don and Sandra.
It was up early again today to upload the pics etc and also catch up with the news from home, somehow it seemed rather quirky but reassuring to listen in to the ABC radio news over the internet to find out the news and weather from home and then switch to BBC 5 to do the same for here.
After another hearty breakfast it was out on the road and heading for the coast via the scenic route and very scenic it was. With John in the navigator seat things did not proceed all that auspiciously as the driver Don turned right instead of left at the top of the short street leading from his house to the main road. Apart from that and one other minor glitch due to excess conversation things went surprisingly well in the direction finding area.
Heading down B & C roads and finally country lanes wide enough for one and a half cars we meandered though some very lush and verdant countryside. We also had cause to follow some very seriously large tractors with machinery attached. It was also noticeable that despite the lush pasture there was almost minimal evidence of animals grazing. This may have been because we couldn’t see over or through very dense and tall hedgerows, but even when we struck a clear patch there were no cows or sheep in sight.
Passing through a number of little villages in the West Surrey countryside including the quaint village of Lurgashall we drove through Chichester and on to Bosham, (pronounced ‘bosum’). Bosham sits at the top of one of the arms of Chichester Harbour and is notable for a number of reasons. Being subject to quite a large tidal range the road around the front of the seawall is open only part of the day as on the hight tide it is under water. Not only that but some of the houses that form the seawall and run along the High Street are also subject to flooding. As a result the doorways and gates are either protected by a small plinth or the door stoop has been raised with the consequent shrinking of the door. Walking down the High Street John couldn’t help noticing the in the wall Post Office box.
Bosham Harbour
The High Street Bosham
Bosham Front Door
Bosham Gate
Post Box In The Wall
Heading around the Shore Road we looked back over the by now almost waterless harbour with its stranded boats to the Anchor Bleue pub where we enjoyed an excellent Ploughman’s Lunch and bowl of shared chips. The back door of the pub was very substantial obviously designed to keep out the rampant tides from entering the bar which would normally be below the high water mark.
Ploughmen Ready For Lunch
A Solid Pub Door
Wandering around the “harbour” Vicki’s eyes were taken by a cluster of Walker Bay boats the same as our little Lulu back home though without the inflatable skirts. A local sailor completed the picture by docking nearby.
Walker Bay Flotilla
Bosham Sailor Coming In To Dock
A little further around the point we came to Holy Trinity Church which is notable for a number of reasons quite apart from the fact that there is a Christian connection with the site dating back to 681AD. A quite striking church made from local flintstone the church is famed for being mentioned on the Bayeux Tapestry a fact which is celebrated in a reproduction of that section of the tapestry in the church which relates the tale of the visit of Harold to the church in 1064. The other notable association is that under the main body of the church is where the daughter of King Canute is interred. Canute is of course famed for trying to command the incoming tide to halt, (though sources suggest that he was actually trying to prove the opposite. ) The small crypt within the church was also very quaint.
Holy Trinity, Bosham
Holy Trinity Bosham Altar
Holy Trinity Crypt
Bayeux Reproduction
Heading back to the main roads we drove on to the historic port of Portsmouth and a first stop at the Gunwharf Quays shopping centre. A Factory outlook centre not unlike the one at Southern Cross Station it had lots of recognizable labels plus numerous others. One thing that caught the eye was a plaque on one of the shopping rows called Phillip Avenue which commemorates the place that Arthur Phillip played in the settlement of Australia, though I am not so sure that I have ever heard Phillip referred to as the Father of Australia.
After a wander through a number of shoe and other associated shops offering a range of inducements, (the financial crisis is making a difference but most of the prices when converted to Aussie dollars were not real bargains in comparison so no purchases were made by V or of course J).
Taking in the Shopping Centre Comfort Stations, J was fascinated that the centre as well as providing soap. warm water and paper towels also supplied mouthwash, maybe for sailors who have been long at sea?? Following the instructions to a T, Mr P washed but didn’t swallow.
Mouthwash
Wandering out of the centre we were confonted by the Spinnaker Tower. Taller than the London Eye it has a couple of viewing platforms though in the interests of getting around we didn’t take the lift to the top. At the dock below we watched as a couple of Tall Ships Challengers maneouvred in and out of position before walkinf around the concourse past even more designer shops. Along the way have been preserved some of the artefacts from the old port including a crane.
Spinnaker Tower
Old Crane
Tall Ship Challengers
Portsmouth has long been, (and still is), one of the major British naval bases. A little further around from the Gunwharf Quays is HMS Warrior and then further on is the big one, HMS Victory. Victory is the ship that Admiral Horatio Nelson was killed on during the successful Battle of Trafalgar. The ship is now impressively displayed in dry dock with regular tours, however as we had lingered elsewhere during the day the last tour had departed before we made it to the display. Instead we meandered around marvelling at how 820 sailors and others might have lived and fought on such an amazing vessel.
HMS Warrior
In another display nearby but this time in an enclosed shed are the remains of the Mary Rose, the flagship of Henry the 8th that sunk in the Thames on its maiden voyage. Again the last tours had also departed before we got there so dear readers alas we have no pics or descriptions of this ship.
Leaving the naval base behind we took the car around to the main seawall and Portsmouth “front beach”. This fine example of an English beach is all pebbles though this did not seem to deter a couple of sun bathers who had spread out mats a little further up the beach. Looking out to sea from the beach we could see the Isle of Wight and nearby a number of ships lining up to go into Southampton Harbour further along the coast.
Beyond the seawall and round house is Spice Island which is not an island at all but a continuation of the coast. Once the haunt of fishermen, sailors and smugglers as well as the site of 3 hotels the area is now more upmarket though only two of the hotels remain. Enjoying the view from the Still and West plus the obligatory pint we watched as vessels of all sorts passed by on their way into or out of port.
Portsmouth Front Beach, Roundhouse behind
Spice Island
Looking Back From Spice Island
Boats That Pass
Heading back to the car we noticed a stone mounted on a monument and were quite amused and bemused by the tale of the rock which had its place in history cemented during the Crimean War. Used by two sailors from the HMS Hecla to shelter behind and beat off “large body of Cossacks”the rock was retrieved by the captain of the Hecla and bought back to Portsmouth in rembrance of the event.
The Hecla Rock
Leaving Portsmouth, this time via the motorway we travelled back towards our home base stopping off on the way for dinner. Whilst in the past we had eschewed purchasing steak not only because of the cost but also the patchy quality of the meat, on this occasion the whole party took up the challenge and we now have to revise our thoughts considerably. Not only were the four different steaks excellent cuts but the presentation and service was simply superb, an great way to end the day before heading the couple of miles back to Guildford and bed.
It was up early again today to upload the pics etc and also catch up with the news from home, somehow it seemed rather quirky but reassuring to listen in to the ABC radio news over the internet to find out the news and weather from home and then switch to BBC 5 to do the same for here.
After another hearty breakfast it was out on the road and heading for the coast via the scenic route and very scenic it was. With John in the navigator seat things did not proceed all that auspiciously as the driver Don turned right instead of left at the top of the short street leading from his house to the main road. Apart from that and one other minor glitch due to excess conversation things went surprisingly well in the direction finding area.
Heading down B & C roads and finally country lanes wide enough for one and a half cars we meandered though some very lush and verdant countryside. We also had cause to follow some very seriously large tractors with machinery attached. It was also noticeable that despite the lush pasture there was almost minimal evidence of animals grazing. This may have been because we couldn’t see over or through very dense and tall hedgerows, but even when we struck a clear patch there were no cows or sheep in sight.
Passing through a number of little villages in the West Surrey countryside including the quaint village of Lurgashall we drove through Chichester and on to Bosham, (pronounced ‘bosum’) http://www.bosham.org/ . Bosham sits at the top of one of the arms of Chichester Harbour and is notable for a number of reasons. Being subject to quite a large tidal range the road around the front of the seawall is open only part of the day as on the hight tide it is under water. Not only that but some of the houses that form the seawall and run along the High Street are also subject to flooding. As a result the doorways and gates are either protected by a small plinth or the door stoop has been raised with the consequent shrinking of the door. Walking down the High Street John couldn’t help noticing the in the wall Post Office box.
Heading around the Shore Road we looked back over the by now almost waterless harbour with its stranded boats to the Anchor Bleue pub where we had enjoyed an excellent Ploughman’s Lunch and bowl of shared chips. The back door of the pub was very substantial obviously designed to keep out the rampant tides from entering the bar which would normally be below the high water mark.
Wandering around the “harbour”Vicki’s eyes were taken by a cluster of Walker Bay boats the same as our little Lulu back home though without the inflatable skirts. A local sailor completed the picture by docking nearby.
Walking a little further around the point we came to Holy Trinity Church http://www.boshamchurch.org.uk/index.html which is notable for a number of reasons quite apart from the fact that there is a Christian connection with the site dating back to 681AD. A quite striking church made from local flintstone the church is famed for being mentioned on the Bayeux Tapestry a fact which is celebrated in a reproduction of that section of the tapestry in the church which relates the tale of the visit of Harold to the church in 1064. The other notable association is that under the main body of the church is where the daughter of King Canute is interred. Canute is of course famed for trying to command the incoming tide to halt, (though sources suggest that he was actually trying to prove the opposite. http://www.viking.no/e/people/e-knud.htm ) The small crypt within the church was also very quaint.
Heading back to the main roads we drove on to the historic port of Portsmouth and a first stop at the Gunwharf Quays shopping centre. A Factory outlook centre not unlike the one at Southern Cross Station it had lots of recognizable labels plus numerous others. One thing that caught the eye was a plaque on one of the shopping rows called Phillip Avenue which commemorates the place that Arthur Phillip played in the settlement of Australia, though I am not so sure that I have ever heard Phillip referred to as the Father of Australia.
After a wander through a number of shoe and other associated shops offering a range of inducements, (the financial crisis is making a difference but most of the prices when converted to Aussie dollars were not real bargains in comparison so no purchases were made by V or of course J).
Wandering out of the centre we were confonted by the Spinnaker Tower http://www.spinnakertower.co.uk/ Taller than the London Eye it has a couple of viewing platforms though in the interests of getting around we didn’t take the lift to the top. At the dock below we watched as a couple of Tall Ships Challengers maneouvred in and out of position before walkinf around the concourse past even more designer shops. Along the way have been preserved some of the artefacts from the old port including a crane.
Portsmouth has long been, (and still is), one of the major British naval bases. A little further around from the Gunwharf Quays is HMS Warrior and then further on is the big one, HMS Victory. Victory is the ship that Admiral Horatio Nelson was killed on during the successful battle of Trafalgar http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/nelson/ The ship is now impressively displayed in dry dock with regular tours, however as we had lingered elsewhere during the day the last tour had departed before we made it to the display. Instead we meandered around marvelling at how 820 sailors and others might have lived and fought on such an amazing vessel.
In another display nearby but this time in an enclosed shed are the remains of the Mary Rose, the flagship of Henry the 8th that sunk in the Thames on its maiden voyage. Again the last tours had also departed before we got there so dear readers alas we have no pics or descriptions of this ship.
Leaving the naval base behind we took the car around to the main seawall and Portsmouth “front beach”. This fine example of an English beach is all pebbles though this did not seem to deter a couple of sun bathers who had spread out mats a little further up the beach. Looking out to sea from the beach we could see the Isle of Wight and nearby a number of ships lining up to go into Southampton Harbour further along the coast.
Beyond the seawall and round house is Spice Island which is not an island at all but a continuation of the coast. Once the haunt of fishermen, sailors and smugglers as well as the site of 3 hotels the area is now more upmarket though only two of the hotels remain. Enjoying the view from the Still and West plus the obligatory pint we watched as vessels of all sorts passed by on their way into or out of port.
Heading back to the car we noticed a stone mounted on a monument and were quite amused and bemused by the tale of the rock which had its place in history cemented during the Crimean War. Used by two sailors from the HMS Hecla to shelter behind and beat off “large body of Cossacks”the rock was retrieved by the captain of the Hecla and bought back to Portsmouth in rembrance of the event.
Leaving Portsmouth, this time via the motorway we travelled back towards our home base stopping off on the way for dinner. Whilst in the past we had eschewed purchasing steak not only because of the cost but also the patchy quality of the meat, on this occasion the whole party took up the challenge and we now have to revise our thoughts considerably. Not only were the four different steaks excellent cuts but the presentation and service was simply superb, an great way to end the day before heading the couple of miles back to Guildford and bed.
What bliss it was to actually recline in a bed again and though our body clock was still at least slightly attuned to Australian time both Vicki and I managed to get a good night’s sleep for the first time in a couple of days. As it is the summer solstice over here, the sun rises very early and so it was that I found myself awake around 5:30 am checking up on all the news etc from home via Don’s wireless network.
Soon enough the others were up and about for a hearty breakfast. Our amiable host Don had a pre-existing tennis commitment so he left us mid-morning to take in the courts leaving us in the capable hands of Sandra his wife. We soon headed back over the river, (which we now know is called the Wey river) and into town again. One of the really nice aspects of places such as Guidlford are many little lanes and accessways that you can take to get places. So it was that we navigated sown little laneways suitable only for pedestrians, through walled gardens and along the towpath running alongside the river basically without meeting any car traffic. Along the way on the wall of a building the following sign attracted John’s attention so a pic was in order, though it was hard to figure out what the anti-climbing product actually is.
Interesting Sign
Prior to leaving Oz, John had asked if this 3 mobile dongle would work in the UK. Having been assured it should it was duly packed but of course once connected to the computer over here it failed to live up to expectations. As a result our first stop in the High Street was the 3 mobile shop. Our very obliging consultant informed us that yes Australian dongles did work in the UK up until June 1 and that yes he could get it to work again however the cost would not be worth the effort.
Packing the dongle back in the pocket we then wandered around a little taking in Abbott’s Hospital, named after one of the founding fathers of Guildford George and built in 1619. Built as an almshouse it has provided accommodation for local residents over 60 and of modest means for nearly 400 years.
Abbot Hospital
Back in the shops we had to take in the local supermarket, Sainsburys and whilst many of the products are very similar to the ones back home there were a couple of standouts such as the 150ml mixer drink cans. Vicki noticed a couple of semi familiar products and purchased them to share with our hosts and we made our way to the self-serve checkout. Much like the new Safeway ones back home we thought we could show off a little as Sandra generally eschewed them in favour of the more personal touch. Unfortunately we hit a hurdle right from the start as our chosen checkout didn’t have bags. The cheerful attendant was soon back with some and we began the scanning process. We soon had recourse to call the attendant again as due to new laws in the UK you now have to show you are over 25 to purchase alcohol without providing some other form of evidence of age. Luckily he accepted the grey hairs as evidence and it was time to pay. After finally figuring out how to swipe the Visa card John was then challenged by the need to insert the card so that the little chip symbol could be verified, (something we don’t yet have to do in Oz). After more fumbles it was time to sign the signature pad but somehow the pen had gone missing so over came our helpful attendant again. Altogether we spent around 1 hour in the supermarket to purchase around 12 items.
A Little Can
Back at home we took in the British Grand Prix live on the tele. Having had to watch events such as this live back home normally after midnight in bed it was strangely disconcerting to be sitting on a couch in the middle of the day seeing Mark Webber live coming in second in what was otherwise really a very unremarkable event.
Heading out after lunch we went to take in the laneways, roads, villages and pubs in the local area. In a round trip that was probably no longer than a trip from Melbourne to Geelong we took in all manner of sights and experiences. Our first stop was a hill-top picnic area called Newlands Corner. Apart from the great views over the Surrey countryside and the chalk and flint stone that abounds, the corner is also famous as the spot where Agatha Christie’s car was left abandoned during her famous disappearance.
On our visit the picnic grounds were much in demand and it was hard to find a carpark. Unfortunately the one we finally found was adjacent to large pile of horse droppings which on our turn in had been spread even further. As Vicki carefully alighted the car her jacket somehow followed behind successfully landing in the middle of the manure.
After taking in the views, (and much debate over which of the hills were which and which were the three counties we were looking over), we meandered back through the picnic throngs to the car and headed off to Shamley and the Red Lion for our first half pint of the day.
Newlands Corner Picknickers
More Picknickers
Shamley Green
The Red Liion
Back on the road and with John in the navigation seat we found our way to Wonert famous for the main street named of course The Street which is lined with period Tudor homes and is regularly used as a film or TV set. In one of the front gardens our attention was taken by the variegated geraniums on display in a couple of barrel bottoms.
The Street, Wonert
The Grantley Arms, Wonersh
Variegated Geraniums
More Geraniums
Driving a little further along we drove into the next destination Tilford to find that indeed the local green was the venue for a cricket match which was well in progress. After parking the car far enough away to avoid any errant cricket balls we headed over to the local, the Barley Mow to take in the free Jazz, local conversation, more beer and if required the regular fall of wickets on the green. All in all a very relaxing late afternoon spent in quite pleasant sunshine.
Tilford Green and The Barley Mow
The Tilford Pavilion
Tilford Green and Bridge
At the end of the match we made our way back to the car and the very short but spectacular drive along this very narrow laneway made dark and foreboding by very dense canopy of trees that overhung most of the road before almost miraculously entering a T-intersection that was the corner of the pub we had walked to the evening before.
Helping out in the kitchen as Sandra cooked up some wonderful pork chops with a prune and mustard sauce, Vicki had fun learning how the bean stringer worked. Having eaten our fill once again the tiredness happened upon us rather quickly, (or was the that the 3-4 half pints followed by the fine Italian wine that Don pulled from his cellar), and having both dozed through the TV news we took the stairs to our beds again and the land of nod.
The pics for this post are available in the Flickr list on the right side of the blog.
